Chanel Carpenter Jeans Ruin Workwear.

 

Luxury brands love appropriation.  Virgil Abloh appropriated industrial design into cool clubwear , The Gap appropriated sleepwear into daily clothing, and pretty much every brand appropriate military stylings.  Chanel has gone a well trodden path, one worn away by Carhaart, and appropriated workwear with pairs of carpenter jeans.

Available in selvedge and blue denim, they incorporate a double c feature for where the hammer or tool hook would be, and external pockets for the same.  However, this double c logo means a predictable premium, as a pair of these cost £2,000.00.

We're writing currently about the ludicrous disparity of luxury good pricing, and how it has completely eliminated aspirational buyers.  This is a great example.  Back in 2008 Tom Ford released jeans with a gold plated button.  These were priced at £550.00 at the time, and the press were scandalised.  Adjusted for inflation this is £900.00, which sharply illustrates how these jeans with no precious metals are beyond expensive, they are in fact overpriced. 

If you disagree, they're available now.

Chanel Blow the Doors off Outrage Pieces with the Half Shoe.

 

In a world where attention is money, and Oscar Wilde's famous quote that the only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about is literally the key to survival, outrageous acts and products are increasingly ordinary.  It's refreshing therefore to find that some brands can still create a double take, and Matthieu Blazy's Chanel half shoe certainly achieves this.

Being quite literally half a shoe, these shocked attendee's at Chanel's Cruise 2026 show.  With the internet and fashion circles in a tailspin about how it can be reasonable to charge more for less, given it's rumoured these may retail of £1,800.00 or more.

Yet the final image here demonstrates with absolute aplomb that these aren't meant to be worn.  It's self-evident that they make no sense, and as the image shows, they can't even stay on the feet.  These are meant to garner attention, create controversy, gather clicks, and keep Chanel current, hot, and in demand.  In this they are a resounding success, after all, we wrote about them, and you're reading about them.

Prada Sea Beyond Capsule Collection

 

In 2021 Prada and UNESCO collaborated to produce the Sea Beyond educational program.  This was conceived for schools worldwide to educate children at the ages of 7-14 about sustainability, and ocean preservation.  Prada has since gone on to ensure all its nylon products are "Re-Nylon".  Which means that the nylon used is regenerated nylon, with the hopes this can be reused in the future.

Prada has continued to fund this program, and has likely educated many children about the dangers and risks of plastic in the sea, and microplastics in everyday drinking water.  They have now further monetised this by releasing a capsule collection titled the Sea Beyond collection.

The Collection itself is simply four classic Prada nylon pieces, in primary colours, and one small detail, the Prada logo is coloured to match the product, a nice little detail.  Prices start from £380 for the bucket hat.

While it's admirable Prada are investing money into sustainability, and is encouraging they have likely shaped young minds with their program, it seems inherently contradictory for a fashion brand to tout their credentials as a supporter of anti climate-change ideologies.  By their very nature, that of needing to produce a new collection twice a year, they stand diametrically opposed to this.  With factories creating garments, shipping them around the world, and into stores, the amount of carbon dioxide produced makes a course for kids to learn about pollution in the oceans rather like a band aid over a bullet wound.

The best thing Prada could do to contribute to climate-change is to stop existing.  But that won't happen. So, nice products, we might buy the jacket, the self coloured logo is quite cool.

Margiela Copies Golden Goose Deluxe With Replica Tape Sneakers

Distressed clothing is relatively common, which makes sense, as slight wear gives an air of lived in appeal that speaks to establishment credentials.  Shoes are less often distressed, and trainers very rarely, as frankly, the idea of distressing sporting shoes seems a little odd, given they are designed to fulfil the requirement of being in good condition for the exercise use they are then put to.    however, Golden Goose Deluxe weren't disparaged by this, and managed to found an entire brand on distressed and destroyed sneakers.

Now Margiela have copied them.  Not slightly, completely, as in 2024 Golden Goose released a pair of trainers with Scotch Tape across them which managed to attract some media attention, with some articles in mainstream press being written about how ridiculous they look.

Margiela's version take their well known Replica sneaker, and distress them, as mentioned, in the exact same way as Golden Goose Deluxe.  Available now in black or white for £650.00 a pair.

Aime Leon Dore North Face Collaboration.

 Brands seeking a steer in respect of how to properly effect a collaboration need look no further than in the direction of this micro capsule between Aime Leon Dore and North Face.  Collaborations often fail to address a key question, which is "why?"  If the only thing the collaboration produces is a different colour, it's pointless.  The true answer to the question is "to bring together to two companies and produce something that synthesises their specialisms".  Which this collection does in spades.

First, it's short and sweet, six pieces, no more, no less.  Second. it's North Face items, the Nuptse jacket, Denali Jaket, North face hat and backpack, and one original shell jacket.  Third it applies Aime Leon Dore's notable ability to source high quality producers, by main the Nuptse in Casentino wool fleece.  

The result is a targeted, intentional, and sharp collection of choice pieces ranging in price from £130 to £700.  Available now on Aime Leon Dore's website.

ERL Statement Flip Flops Attract Needless Controversy

 

ERL, the namesake brand of the photographer Eli Russel Linnetz, has been producing the type of decent, high quality casuals that typify LA brands like James Perse and Pasadena Leisure Club.  Their pieces have never been inexpensive, with sweats being in the £400.00 region, but they've been attracting controversy for their Flip Flops.  Which as our title suggest is quite unnecessary.

The Brand has produced three versions, the low, with a 1 inch sole for £205.00, the big, with a 5 inch sole, for £407.00, and the huge, with an 8 inch sole, for £1390.00.

Online media has written a great deal on the fact that ERL are on the face of it selling $1,500 Flip Flops "in this economy", however a child should be able to see this is clearly a marketing move.  The only model 90% of consumers might buy is the 1 inch model, and at £205.00 it's relatively reasonable in the luxury Flip Flop market.  For example, the Hermes Oran sandal is £510.00 and Brunello Cucinelli's rubber Flip Flop is £350.00.  ERL's standard model is therefore, in universe, quite reasonable.

The other models are designed to get tongues wagging.  Which worked.  Because, like it or not, even as meta commentary, we are discussing it. Well done ERL, well played.

Prada Braves Choppy Luxury Waters Buying Versace for $1.35bn.

 

We steer clear of global geopolitical events usually on this little blog, and we won't change that in any significant regard today.  We can however without being partisan make an objective statement, that at time of writing in early 2025 the luxury market is struggling, with even Hermes targets not being met, and that due to world events, it's a tough time to be a luxury brand.  These facts make Prada's decision to go ahead with acquiring Versace a particular bold move.

The reality is that deals like this are years in the making.  Numerous high-level meetings, and copious due-diligence studies. These stages take considerable time.  There may even have been some sort of penalty for not completing the acquisition after a certain point.  Nonetheless, to take a large chunk of capital, even if partially leveraged by debt, in such uncertain times, is admirable.

We applaud the brazenness of the act, and are hopeful it reinvigorates both brands.  With Versace's glamour dragging Prada out of its dull eternal 1960's aesthetic, and Prada tempering some of Versace's most vulgar excesses/. Let's wait and see. 

Saint Laurent Paris quietly rebrand their logo to a Classic Look.

 

In 2012 Hedi Slimane made waves in the fashion industry by completely revolutionising Yves Saint Laurent.  They took the brand, which by this point had stagnated hugely from its origins, and turned it into a rock n roll luxury slim cut affair which has taken it from strength to strength.  Now, if you see a celebrity with a wool teddy, or slim cut dark overcoat, there's a high chance it's from Saint Laurent Paris.

This last point however, the naming of the brand, caused perhaps more controversy than any other.  Numerous articles were written about whether the new sans serif simplified logo, which dropped the "Yves", was a tribute to the brands creator, or a disservice.  It got to such a point that Hedi, normally very reticent to speak to media, gave an interview to Vogue to justify their choices (here).

However, what has seemingly gotten no attention, and is not being discussed anything like Slimane's move, is the fact that the new creative director, Anthony Vaccorello, is quietly changing the logo again.  Seen above, the new logo appears to be a return to the traditional stylised font, but dropping also the "Paris" from it.  

This appears to be a very inconsistent move from our analysis.  The website has the new logo, some shirts, knitwear and coats have it, while a lot of outerwear has the old logo.  Furthermore, there are several leather jackets with the new logo, and "Paris" in the old font.  

We're not quite sure why the move has been made, and confused why it's been done so inconsistently.  Gut instinct suggests Vacorello wants to make their mark.  However, they seem to have failed, as we can't find anyone discussing it.  Also, if you want to make a mark, why not have a consistent roll out across all levels of the brand?

It seems to us that this is probably a case of Vaccarello wanting to distinguish themselves, but corporate preventing them from doing so from fears of loosing money to consumers that might not like the new style.  This indicates Vacarello probably doesn't have the same weight as Slimane, so wasn't able to make the bold move the Belgian made.  We predict this will either fizzle out, and return to Slimane's logo, or we will just see the inconsistent branding across lines.  Until of course Vaccarello is replaced with someone who can introduce something new.

Anti Social Social Club Customised Luxury Goods Capsule Selection.

It's no secret that we like Anti Social Social Club here.  It's irreverant and almost total disregard for the normal conventions that dictate how to run a business, and the fact that it still succeeds, really hits us where we live.  In a world of bland conformity, where every business is desperate to please, Neek Lurk and ASSC take bold moves like, delivering orders incredibly slowly, and then, when people complain, making a limited collection with their complaints printed on it, which sells out immediately.  Genius, although, we might be less enthusiastic if we were customers, but we can admire a good joke.

And in the same slightly outre fashion, they have now released an ultra high-end luxury capsule.  But wait, does this mean they are selling out?  Have they buckled to the pressure to collab with high-end brands and loose their individuality? Will they be bought by LVMH and given to one of Arnault's incompetent offspring and "reimagined"?  No.  To all of these.

In typical Anti Social Social Club fashion, they've done a luxury capsule their way, and no-one else's.  They simply bought luxury goods, Goyard bags and wallets, Rolex watches, Apple Airpods Max, Rimowa classic cabin luggae, customised it, and are selling them for a mark-up.  No compromise, no collaboration, just profit.  Demonstrating once again, they remain one of the few brands that still push the envelope just a little.

Available now, with prices from £1,200 for the Goyard wallet, to £25,000 for the blacked out Rolex Submariner.

Loro Piana Attempt to Streamline with a Sleeker, Smoother Attitude, but is Lifeless and Dull.

 

Loro Piana has showcased it's 2024/2025 fall/winter collection, and it has a marked similarity to a number of currently popular mainstream brands.  One stand out detail is the cardo-shaped pins closing the collars, which is seemingly a reference to thistle's, which have a textured touch.  However, it's the fact that the collection looks virtually identical to Zegna's Fear-Of-God collection that is more surprising.

Or perhaps, not so surprising.  Loro Piana is in fact owned by LVMH, and has been since 2013.  Antione Arnault has been steering the ship since 2022, and as anyone familiar with the fashion industry knows, the Arnault family and LVMH are like the Apple of luxury goods.  Sleek, polished, bland and dull, and completely devoid of creativity.  It is therefore entirely unsurprising that they have simply copied Zegna after seeing how well it did, as that's their trademark.

It's sad to see Loro Piana slide into being merely another lifeless husk of a brand, without any originality.  However, as long as LVMH continues it's expansion and approach, this will continue to be the case.

Qunice Sustainable Cashmere Attempts to bring Luxury at Affordable Prices.

 

A brand to keep a eye on if you are a fan of cashmere at reasonable prices is the San Francisco based Quince.  This relatively new brand seeks to both have a sustainable supply-chain for its cashmere, and deliver the highest quality clothing, homeware's and accessories at bargain-basement prices.  According to the brand's website, they operate on a direct to consumer model, which enables them to achieve both of these aims.

In the current climate of unease and mistrust, any claims are doubted, no matter how real or genuine they may be.  However, unless Quince is operating at a substantial loss with a view to eliminate competition, they may be telling the truth here.  Their cashmere sweaters start from $59, which beats even Uniqlo's budget cashmere prices.

We feel this is very much of the moment, as affordability is vital in difficult economic times.  However, its not necessarily viable to apply this to luxury goods.  In much of the cases, the premium price is part of what makes luxury goods attractive.  It's uncertain as to offering "discount" luxury goods will be attractive to consumers.

In any case, Quince's products appear of exceptional quality, and can be a good opportunity to stock up on quality basics and wardrobe essentials.  Head to their site for more information and to purchase some.

Apparently Loewe is the Worlds "Hottest Brand". . .

 

According to the Lyst Index Loewe is the world's "hottest brand", and is the "one to watch".  This has been widely reported in outlets such as Hypebeast, and Forbes.  According to reports this is likely motivated by the unusual "3D print" clothes that have been regarded as meme-worthy and celebrities wearing the brand such as Kylie Jenner wearing their Anagram tank top.  This has apparently resulted in a 19% increase in searches for the brand.

However, Loewe hasn't produced anything noteworthy, and it's new products are a far cry from the maximalism Gucci do so well.  They are merely a vain attempt to grab attention in an attention economy, and smack of desperation.  As does the fact that celebrities are "wearing" these garments, after all, these celebrities are given the clothes for free, and paid to wear them.  As for the so called "hottest brand" label, a mere three months ago this belonged to Prada.  Are we really supposed to believe some seismic shift has altered reality to make Prada no longer a viable choice?   

We suggest this is reporting nothing for the sake of filling headline space.  If we were being entirely cynical we would suspect the entire affair is manufactured beyond what is a given in these circles.  At any rate, hopefully consumers wont be fooled by this into buying Loewe's pretty tatty tat.

Burberry Rebrand (Again) And Abandon Sans Serif.

 

If you are the type of person that dislikes having consumer or luxury goods not "current" by virtue of their logo, and you're a fan of Burberry, it's about to get expensive for you.  Because for the third time in ten years Burberry are changing their logo, typeface and branding.

The Christopher Bailey era (2001 - 2017) saw the brand harkening back to it's origins with a Times New Roman typeface, and the classic knight on horseback, which in 2018 when Riccardo Tisci was scrapped.  It was replaced with a combination of the initials of Thomas Burberry, and a clean bold, Sans Serif type font, which is so ubiquitous in fashion and luxury goods.  Now Daniel Lee is creative director has returned to the traditional logo, albeit with slightly stretched out typeface.

Frankly, this is just an attempt to take a "new broom" approach to his new position at the head of Burberry.  The logo does nothing new, and frankly is pretty dull.  Some commentators have remarked this could be the "death knell" for Sans Serif in luxury branding.  We disagree.  

The reality is Burberry is a heritage brand.  It's top items are trad pieces, like trench coats, and check scarves, with the occasional 'modern touch'.  It never suited the slick branding Tisci attempted, and is just going back to what it should have been to begin with.

Salvatore Ferragamo rebrands as Ferragamo

 

A time-tested formula for brands whose glory days are behind them has come to be rebranding by dropping part of the original name, and releasing an edgier darker logo.  YSL did it going from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris.  Pierre Balmain changed to Balmain Paris.  With Christian Dior's Monsieur range changing to Dior Homme.  Now the faded glamour that was Salvatore Ferragamo is attempting to ape this, however with a name with only two parts, the choice was to scrap it or go for either.  They decided on the latter, and the brand will henceforth be called "Ferragamo".

All the usual design touches are seen.  Bold font, large space around the logo to give a minimalist feel, elegant spacing.  Frankly, we've seen it all before, and it feels a bit like the business card scene from American Psycho deciding on whose looks more elegant.  In short, it's a nice, safe, new look, and their director chose well picking Peter Saville for the logo.

The thing that made all the other houses shine following a rebrand was a new direction in their merchandise.  Before Hedi Slimane streamlined Saint Laurent Paris it was a dinosaur known for decades of ugly mens suiting and a few years of questionable design choices under Tom Ford.  Slimane changing the logo was dramatic, but what he did to the brand made it a rock and roll edgy brand again and go to for those looking for luxury sharp elegance with an edge.  If Ferragamo change their logo and keep making the same frumpy clobber, this will be forgotten in a few years, and they will need to try again.  Who knows, maybe they can try calling themselves "Salvatore" next time?

Adidas Original Forum 84 Hi AEC Distressed Sneaker

 

Golden Goose have been doing it for years, Virgil Abloh made it cool, and Saint Laurent started picking it up again just recently, the distressed sneaker trend seems back in vogue, and Adidas are strong out the gate with this Forum 84 Hi.

Cue the wailing and gnashing of teeth, and pulling of hair by mainstream press, and look forward to incendiary poorly researched articles making fun of paying over the odds for trainers that look old and used, all of which completely miss the point of these, and of fashion in general.  We look forward to wincing with the appalling puns these pieces generally contain.

Pictured here is the blue and white (and yellowed with faux age) version of the Forum hi 84 fromAdidas, but theres a white and yellow version if this simply isn't enough yellow for you.  These banging sneaker are available at higher end retail outlets from £200.

Acronym 2021/2022 Selection Launches Two Slightly Novel Silhouettes

 

Acronym continues to survive, despite no advertising, little to no promotion, and virtually no distribution.  On the one hand you have to admire in changing and volatile times a brand bucking the trends of marketing and existing on, mostly, word of mouth alone.  Unfortunately it must be said that this ultra high end techwear brand is beginning to become somewhat stale in its offerings.  Pretty much all its pieces have a similar shape and concept to the J47-GT "interops" jacket, and are all really versions of this in one form or another.

This is not necessarily a bad thing.  Having a "look" can single you out in a crowded market.  However the danger with such an approach, an especially when selling ultra high end pricy goods, is that once everyone who might want your products has them, then your customer base had dried up.

It's nice then to see that alongside the typical pieces Acronym has tried to think outside the box a little this season.  With the J16-GT which has some serious urban samurai vibes coming from the shoulder-pads, and the, almost cuddly, Windstopper, Primaloft, Modular Liner Jacket.

Prices are predictably eye-watering.  The J16-Gt costing £1,400.00 and the Liner coming in at £1,200.00.  However, Acronym is more of a cult than merely a clothing brand.

JUNY WATANABE and Reigning Champ Second Collection.

 

For over a year virtually the only clothing worn by all consumers, luxury or otherwise, has been lounge clothes, the perennial combo of sweat pants and a hoody with a tee shirt.  While popping a shirt on for the occasional meeting might break this routine, and a few professions require specific formal dress codes, this has been the norm.

It makes sense therefore to wear lounge clothes which make you feel a little more special, and elevate you above feeling like you’re still wearing what you might wear to sleep in, and wouldn’t mind popping to the shops or meeting friends in.

JUNYA WATANABE and Reigning Champ's second collaboration offers exactly that. In lighter weight for the coming season, and providing an eclectic range of panelled pieces, and hybrid styles, this collection looks like a perfect choice for venturing out if it truly happens, or taking in food deliveries for another six months in luxurious casual comfort.

Available soon from Reigning Champ's site, and other retailers, with prices yet to be confirmed, but if the previous collection is anything to go by we can expect prices starting from £85 for tees, and topping at £400.